These are based on 25 years of sword use, researching, collecting, antique dealing, handling 1000s of original antique swords of all periods, as well as 100s of modern replicas.

The difference between a good and a bad sword replica is more about attention to detail and knowledge, and less about cost. Low cost replicas can usually be improved quite easily, by correcting their failures against this checklist below. Following these simple rules will usually lead to a great product. Where negative reviews of swords are shared, they usually fail against several of the points below*.

Follow the ratios and proportions of the original examples as closely as possible, especially the proportions of hilt to blade, grip and guard size etc. MASS and POINT OF BALANCE should match.

1) Follow original historical distal taper: many (though not all) original blades halve in thickness through their length. This is one of the most often ignored factors in replicas

2) Many historical blades flex mostly in the second half of the blade and very little, if at all, in the first half of the blade next to the hilt – this is related to blade taper

3) Blade flex should be regular and gradual, with no sudden variations

4) Edges should be ‘almost sharp’ if not actually sharp or deliberately thick for practice. This reduces mass and makes swords closer to originals in handling

5) Looking along a sword edge, it should be linear, without twists, bends or warps

6) Blade fullers and edge bevels should be regular, linear and symmetrical

7) Ricasso should only be used on blade types that had them historically

8) Fullers on many swords (eg. many medieval swords) went into the tang rather than stopping before the guard: emulate the originals of the sword type being replicated

1) Hilts should be tight on tangs, without movement or vibration. When struck, there should be no rattling and the blade should ideally sound with a ring as a result

2) The hilt components (guard, grip, pommel) should align with the cutting edge and not move

3) Guards should fit tightly and evenly to blades and tangs, without larger tang holes than necessary and without movement

4) Wood should be chosen for grips that is neither too soft, nor too brittle

5) Guards, pommels and finger-rings should be smooth-edged and comfortable to use

1) Avoid using smooth, shiny chromed/patent leather, or suede, on grips and scabbards. Vegetable-tanned leather with a waxed finish is best

2) Avoid using shiny, thin metal mounts on scabbards: it is better to use no metal mounts at all than cheap-looking ones

3) Avoid modern-looking cast alloys for components. Stick to iron, steel, brass, bronze etc

4) Avoid using mirror polishes on guards and pommels in most cases

5) Where components are cast, casting lines should be removed

6) All components should fit tightly against each other, without notable gaps, steps or lips

7) No glue should be visible anywhere